GEYSERVILLE, CA—It’s 29 degrees at 7 a.m. and I’m pouring water on my windshield trying to melt the frost. It’s a typical scenario for Sonoma County in January. My plan is to drive north and be in the heart of Dry Creek Valley by 9 a.m. to taste the wines at Dutcher Crossing Winery.

This winery exemplifies the low-key ambience of Dry Creek Valley, an appellation sixteen miles long and at most two miles across that has been home to generations of grape growers and winemakers.

No they’re not dead. These grapevines are dormant at this time of year. I find that there’s a haunting kind of beauty in these rows of brown tangles. 

At 9 a.m. there are no visitors and no noise except for the fitting sounds of bluegrass/folk music coming from a vineyard worker’s radio lost somewhere between the steel tanks.

Inside the tasting room, a fireplace on a morning like this, feels so comforting. It’s made from locally quarried rock. This is a spacious tasting room yet it also feels intimate. I like its vaulted beam ceiling, polished limestone tasting bar, and wide hickory plank floors.

What a treat it was to be the first visitor of the day. There’s a special event called Winter Wineland planned for the region this weekend and most tasting rooms are getting tasting rooms ready for what is expected to be a large crowd. The event is all about wine (indeed!), art, and education.

Midge was kind enough to pour their current offerings for me. On weekdays they have a $5 tasting flight. On weekends they add a second flight: The $10 tasting.

Here’s what’s currently being offered on the $5 flight (5 wines). I tasted these selections, which were all very good. They should be available for the next couple of months before the menu changes:

2010 Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc
(Gold Medal-2011 Critics Challenge International Wine Competition). I tasted honeysuckle. Nice citrus aromas. (708 cases produced)

2009 Costello Vineyard Chardonnay
(Gold Medal-2011 Sonoma County Harvest Fair) This vineyard is located in Alexander Valley. I smiled at the bright acidity found in this wine! (485 cases produced)

 2008 Maple Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek)
(Best of Class-Gold Medal-2010 Pacific Rim Wine Competition)
(Gold Medal-2010-San Francisco International Wine Competition)
(Gold Medal-2010-Critics’ International Wine Competition)
This medium body Zin had very good fruit flavors on the mid-palate. Many people taste a hint of pepper. I did. I’ve heard that the Maple Vineyard owners are very selective about to whom they choose to sell their coveted grapes. Ducher Crossing is one of only five wineries who are on that very short list. (994 cases produced)

2008 Proprietor’s Reserve Syrah
This new release is from their selection of estate wines. Smokey and aromatic. (306 cases produced)

2008 Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Another new release. A Dry Creek Valley blend made in a lighter style makes it food friendly. It won’t overpower a lighter dish. It was Rhone-ish and a touch softer than their previous vintage cabs. (1180 cases produced)

Outside, I found winemaker Kerry Damskey and assistant winemaker Ben Jordan. They seemed in good spirits. “We’re bottling tomorrow,” shouted Kerry as he come over to greet me with a good-natured slap on the back. “After that, let the rains come!”

This is the third driest winter here in the past twenty years. Kerry was referring to the optimistic weather report that predicts the possibility of rain sometime next week. We’ll see. The high today was about 64 degrees. Not what we’d expect for January.

I also must mention that, aside from the consistently good wine, Dutcher Crossing is an excellent place to have an outdoor seat and perhaps a picnic. From this spot, guests can enjoy panoramic views of the valley’s hillside beauty. It is gorgeous! I highly recommend a visit to this charming family owned winery….

By the way, they also made a 100% Cabernet Port. They like to change this one from year to year. Their last Port was a Cab-Syrah blend. This current Port is very distinctive. Not too viscous nor heavy. Good with chocolate. Yeah! The Port is not on their menu but it is available every day. Just ask.

So you ask “why the classic bicycle in the tasting room and on their wine label”? Owner Debra Mathy considers the bicycle a symbol of the timeless qualities of an artisan approach to life as well as to winemaking. As the last Christmas present she received from her late father, it also represents her journey to find Dutcher Crossing Winery. Mathy, an avid cyclist and lover of bicycles since childhood, spent ten years traveling with her father to discover the winery of their dreams. She can almost always be found during the day greeting visitors, with her golden lab, Dutchess, at her side. 

You’ll find this winery at the far end of Dry Creek Road not far from the town of Healdsburg, CA. It’s a perfect location and a magical place!